Tuesday, November 17, 2009
A little dose of the real world...campo style
Our first day of field based training started off with a trip to Starbucks, the hang out for PCVs in Lambayeque. After spending an entire day's allowance on a coffee, we headed to the town of Olmos, about 3 hours by combi (a public, very crowded van). Two of the volunteers I was with will be living in small villages in this district. During our stay in Olmos, we ate amazing street food, planted trees, and stayed with local host families. There was no electricity in the village we stayed in which turned out to be relaxing and refreshing. As it turned out, the volunteer who coordinated this part of the training had gotten the entire village excited about a United States V. Peru volleyball game. Upon our arrival, the Peruvians all got really worried because, compared to them, we are all enormous. In the end they had no reason to be nervous since not one of us plays volleyball. We ended up losing all three games but the scores were at least close. I hope that when I move to my site I will be able to start a pickup volleyball game so that I can learn to play.
After two nights in Olmos, we headed back down to a village outside of the town where I will be living to stay at another volunteer's site. This village is located right on the national historical sanctuary so many of the people who live there work as volunteer park guards in exchange for rice and other foods. While the men do rounds patrolling the forest, women volunteer park guards generally sweep the forest floor but, in this village, the volunteer that lives there has gotten them composting and building a tree nursery to help with reforestation of the park. Since I will be living so close I will be helping maintain the tree nursery project for the volunteer who is leaving. I am very lucky to have this project already in place so that I don't have to start from scratch.
After working at the nursery we went for a hike into the national historical sanctuary to see some of the ruins from the Sican Culture. The adobe pyramids dating back to pre Incan times have now eroded substantially but it is obvious that they were massive and of incredible cultural importance. One of the pyramids is called the Pyramid of Kneeling Women because it was found filled with women who had been sacrificed in the kneeling position. This national historical sanctuary will provide excellent opportunities for me to work in reforestation as well as environmental and cultural awareness.
During my three days of field based training I had a few moments where it hit me that I am living in a different world now. The first of these happened when I was riding between one of the small rural villages and the district capitol in a mototaxi (a motorcycle converted into a carriage style tricycle). As we were bouncing along the dusty road, I all of a sudden felt a scurrying over my feet and around my ankles. I shrieked and looked down to see a burlap sack moving around at my feet. As it turns out, this mototaxi was also serving to transport guinea pigs. The next day during breakfast I had a similar moment of realization when, during breakfast, a neighbor boy ran into the dining room with a screaming goat dangling from his arms yelling "it's dying!" The woman who I was staying with calmly stated that it had been that way since yesterday and there was nothing that could be done. Perhaps the funniest of these encounters occurred when, over lunch with all of the Peace Corps volunteers at the house of one of the volunteer park guards, we realized that what we had though was pepper in our rice were actually tons of dead ants. We all got a little extra protein that day along with our dose of reality. The field based training left me with a little better idea of what life in rural Peru is like but, more than anything, the people were so welcoming and gracious that I got more excited than ever to move into my community.
Site Assignments...Finally!
On Tuesday, we got to teach English in a school which is an activity that I intend to use to get my foot in the door with students and parents once I get to site. Many of the volunteers that have spoken to us recommend teaching English to build trust (confianza) with kids and their parents. The students that we practiced on were incredibly welcoming and curious. When we walked in the room they were all standing and waving American flags that they had made in class. I can only hope that some of my efforts in site will be this well received.
On Friday we traveled to the Peace Corps headquarters in Lima where we officially found out where everyone will be for the next two years! To make these announcements, they attached 56 balloons to the wall each with a name and a site placement on it. Each volunteer through a spear at the balloons and read the name and placement from the balloon that they popped. After some screaming, tears of joy, and one close call with the spear, everyone in Peru 14 was officially given a place to live for the next two years. I am looking forward to visiting my new friends all over the country.
After site assignments were handed out, we had the afternoon free so I headed for a little slice of the USA at the mall across the street. I ate Dunkin Doughnuts and spent a good amount of time at the Apple Store checking email before heading back to the center for dance classes. If we hadn't just been given our fate for the next two years, dance class would have easily been the best part of my day. We essentially followed a Peruvian Richard Simmons through a medley of all of the popular dances in Peru mixed in with some of his own moves. I don't know if it was his short shorts, super enthusiasm, or tank top but it was impossible not to follow the instructor's lead and attempt every dance from raggaeton to huaynos (traditional music and dance from the mountains). The dancing that ensued was probably the best workout that I have gotten since I have been here.
When our own "Ricardo Simmons" finally stopped, we had one of our Peruvian Spanish instructors teach us the thriller dance. I intend to find this dance on DVD, learn the choreography, and teach a group of children in my community all the moves. I believe all of this falls under the cultural exchange goal of the Peace Corps.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Life at 10,000 Feet Above Sea Level
On Wednesday night we left for our first field based training, which means we got to visit the sites where volunteers are currently living. The environment volunteers went to the department of Ancash, home of the most famous Andean glaciers. The most famous climbs and treks in Peru leave from the capitol of Ancash, Huaraz. In order to get there, we took a night bus, which was the most comfortable form of transportation that I have ever used. The seats are much larger than first class airplane seats and recline to almost flat (although you can pay slightly more to have seats that become full beds). I was able to sleep the entire night and wake up to vistas of the Cordillera Blanca, the most famous section of the Peruvian Andes.
We arrived in Huaraz at 6:30 in the morning and went directly to our first site visit. I could feel myself breathing panting as my body tried to acclimate to the lack of oxygen at 10,000 feet. The first site we visited was at the base of the highest tropical glacier in the world, Huascaran. All of the community members that I met throughout field-based training only spoke Quechua amongst each other and would switch to Castellano only when talking to us. This makes the sites in the Andes difficult because the volunteers only speak the second language of the community members. The towns around this area live off of the trekking industry by renting out rooms in their houses and hauling hiker's gear on their donkeys. We went up to a glacial lake to talk to the park guards about park management and look at the tree nursery that is a part of the reforestation project currently underway in Huascaran National Park. We also got a chance to talk to the members of the various tourist service organizations including artisans, boat drivers, and people who sell amazing food. That night, I stayed in a modernized version of a traditional farmer's hut that one of the community members had built to rent out to tourists. When I complimented the building, the owner offered to build me one, which I had to politely decline, a skill that I have acquired since moving to Peru.
The second morning, we woke up for a community trash clean up at 6 am. Every community that I have encountered so far has events called faenas, which are mandatory community maintenance and service days. It was an honor to be able to participate even though I had to get up at dawn. After the clean up, we headed to our next site which was incredible different from the first in that it lacked discipline and organization. We looked at the tree nursery and planted a few native tree species where we could find space amongst the thousands of Eucalyptus trees that have been introduced because of their quick growth and long, straight trunks. One of our challenges as PCVs is to convince people that it is worthwhile to grow trees other than Eucalyptus, a species that dramatically degrades soil quality because of its high levels of nutrient and water uptake.
That evening, we helped the current volunteers to prepare their Halloween costumes for the next night. While I curled ribbons to look like feathers for a parrot costume, my friend Olivia and our technical trainer Lane worked very hard to braid and sew beads into the volunteers beard for a Johnny Depp inspired pirate costume. That night after a meal of guinea pig and about 7 potatoes, I had the pleasure of using a squat latrine for the first time in my life.
On the final day of field-based training, I headed to another small community where I made a presentation on building a micro relleno (a simple landfill) and composting. The talk went very well and the community members even participated in the activity that I had planned at the end. For lunch, I was again served guinea pig (or cuy to Peruvians), but this time I was served the head, which I traded with the language instructor who was accompanying our group because, according to him, it is the best part of the cuy. Personally, I couldn't bring myself to gnaw what little meat there was off of the skull of the cuy. Instead, I got to gnaw a very small amount of meat off the hind leg of the guinea pig (which looks pretty much like a rat when stripped of its fur).
After lunch on Saturday, we headed into Huaraz to hang out until our bus left at 11 pm. From the main square of Huaraz, I was able to see more than 5 snow covered peaks, which made it the most majestic plaza that I have ever seen. During our time in Huaraz I went to the artisan market where bought a necklace of seeds called Huayruros which are said to bring luck and protection. Around dinnertime, Halloween really started picking up and I was caught off guard by the children trick or treating in the streets. We were constantly being asked for candy while we ate at a sidewalk café. When we would tell the kids that we didn't have any, some got pretty insistent and we even got a few death stares from the mothers. I was surprised by how common it was in Huaraz to participate in this American tradition.
Today, I got home at 7 am and am currently resting up for another big week of training. While I write, I am watching the episode of South Park where guinea pigs aided by Donald Rumsfeld aim to take over the world. It is a very appropriate thing to be watching given the amount of guinea pig I have consumed in the last three days. This has been a crazy week and there will be much more to come as I enter the final stretch of training. I am looking forward to getting to site and getting my two years underway. I also received tons of mail last week, which was awesome! Thank you to all who sent it. I can't send much because it is incredibly expensive and I am living on an allowance of about $2 a day but I will try and respond by email ASAP! I hope life is good back in the USA! Keep me posted everyone!
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Temblores!
On Monday I went to the local library for my usually volunteering but this week was particularly exciting because we facilitated a self-esteem building exercise rather than just playing games. We asked all the kids, age 6-16, to draw what they want to be when they grow up and, of course, we did the same. Even though these kids come from difficult home situations, they overcame their initial hesitation and drew excellent pictures of themselves as singers, doctors, accountants, veterinarians, fishermen, and other ambitious professions. All of them were proud that their drawings were better than my stick figure of an environmental lawyer. This was a great activity that I will definitely be using at my site to get kids to think about their future and their dreams.
On Tuesday, I also got to work with local children as an activity for my environmental education training. My friend Peter and I designed a lesson about different types of pollution and delivered it to the 14 and 15 year olds in the community colegio (school). The lesson went very well because the kids were knowledgeable and engaged. At the end we wrote up a list of things that we would do to help stop pollution in our communities and we all signed it. It was an incredibly successful activity and I look forward to using it in my site.
On Thursday, we got to go on a field trip to Lomas de Lachay national protected area about 3.5 hours from the training center. This protected area is a pocket of vegetation on the otherwise arid coast. This phenomenon occurs because the hills capture the fog that rolls up off the Pacific Ocean. There is enough fog that these hills are completely green during the wet season while everything around them stays sandy and dry. After hiking the perimeter of the park, we helped in their reforestation efforts by planting about a hundred seedlings. This was excellent practice for our task of planting a thousand trees once we get to our permanent sites.
On Friday we went on another field trip to a protected area called Pantanos de Villa which is a wetland located on the outskirts of Lima. It is an interesting protected space because it is surrounded by young communities where poor people have recently invaded and built houses without any legal claim to the land. Any land that is not directly being used in Peru is at risk of being invaded due to property laws that are less than clear. This concept has been incredibly difficult for all of the trainees to wrap our heads around because we are so used to every inch of land being accounted for by a legal contract. Despite the problems that face this protected area, it is the home to many species of beautiful birds, some of which we got to see during our short visit. It was wonderful to get to see some of the wildlife and get a first hand look at the challenges that Peru faces in protecting the important ecosystems that exist here.
Overall, it has been a wonderful week. I got to go on adventures, meet new people, see a variety of ecosystems, work with children, and I even got mail from home (thanks to mom, dad, and grandma Betty). Next week I will be heading up into the Andes for field based training and I will even be staying at the site of a current volunteer! These experiences should be very eye opening as I look ahead from my very well supported life as a trainee into the more rugged lifestyle of an actual Peace Corps Volunteer. I hope all is well back in the states! Eat some extra pizza for me!
P.S. I am reading the most incredible book right now that I would recommend to all of you. It is called Mountains Beyond Mountains by Tracy Kidder and it is the true story of Paul Farmer, a doctor who worked extensively in Haiti and Peru
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Half Way Through Training
This week, we made the transition from more language oriented training into the technical, practical experience oriented phase of training. Since it was more hands on, the week was a lot more fun than past weeks have been. We had a trash management practicum on Thursday, which consisted of every student bringing a day's worth of trash to the center to be sorted. As if our host families and communities already didn't think we were weird, now we ask to bring their trash to the center and then take it with us on public transportation. Between this and WWF, I can't imagine what they think of the US. Once we got our trash to the center, we spent the day digging through it, sorting it, weighing it, and talking about it in order to find out what people are throwing away and how this could be reduced by implementing a recycling system. This is a tool some volunteers use to have numbers to back up waste management plans that they propose once they get to site.
On Friday, we went to a small rural town, which was supposed to be similar to a site we might encounter. The original plan was to walk around and talk to the local people about natural resources in order to practice doing a community diagnostic (our fancy term for getting to know a community). We got in the Peace Corps van and started our slow and steady drive up the Carretera Central to an altitude of about 8,000 ft. We only had to stop once along the way to wait for our overheated engine to cool off. Once we got there, things did not go exactly as planned because everyone in the community was working on remodeling the community center so no one could really talk to us. We ended up going on an amazing hike up into the hills to a waterfall. Since we live in a desert type ecosystem, it was great to get up into an area where there is vegetation.
One of the highlights of my week was returning home to find that my sister had been given a new kitten. I was immediately deemed the godmother of the kitten and asked to name it. I decided to name it Vampiro (I would be lying if I said this has nothing to do with my current obsession with Twilight). The name then got extended to Chucky (named after the doll from the horror movie) Vampiro Vazquez Zevallos (my family's last name).
Today, Sunday I woke up and went to teach English at the grade school in my small town. Two friends and I ended up teaching about ten kids some of whom were more excited to be there than others. After English class, I cooked French toast and an omelet for my family. It wasn't amazing but they definitely enjoyed it, especially the mango-strawberry topping I made for the French toast. After lunch I did laundry with my host mom which is great because we get to chat and laugh while she watches me struggle to scrub spots out of my old socks. I am definitely not as much of a perfectionist as she is when it comes to getting whites their whitest by hand. I got some great pictures of my mom, abuelita, and I drinking beers over the wash tub which I will put up once I find a fast enough internet connection.
I hope all is well!! Please keep me updated on your lives! Also, if you have a different email that you would like me to email you at, please let me know. I want to keep in touch with everyone for the next two years. Keep it real for me in the states, miss you all!!
Life is Misky Misky (delicious in Quechua)
Hola todos! It has been a crazy and eventful week here in Peru. It started off last Saturday night with a wild party in my neighborhood celebrating the saint of this region. The festivities started around 10:30 pm and consisted of local food, beer, and dancing. I even got to participate in the traditional passing of the vaso, which is where everyone passes around a glass and fills it with beer for themselves. You hardly ever see anyone drinking out of the bottle here because it is a communal activity right down to the shared germs. I was honored that my host dad included me in the activity. The party didn't really get started until about 12 when they started lighting the toros locos which, are towers covered in fireworks that spray sparks in every direction. This got to be a bit nerve wracking when I was standing within 15 feet of one and the sparks headed in my direction. There is not the same healthy respect for fireworks here as there is in the United States. After dancing (rather comically) until 2:30 my younger siblings and I headed home while my host parents continued to party until 5 am! It was quite an experience.
After the fiesta the night before, I assumed that the community had gotten their fill of fireworks but I grossly underestimated Yanacoto's appreciation for explosions. The next day I attended the 32nd anniversary of the local grade school. Prior to the fireworks display, each class performed a traditional Peruvian dance. Interspersed among the traditional dances were routines choreographed by the student's themselves including a Michael Jackson tribute, a breakdance routine, and a routine set to a techno version of the Titanic theme song. The last two dances included some amateur stunt work resulting in two unconscious students. I was pretty unnerved watching one student after the other dragged off the dance floor while the others continued dancing. As if this wasn't enough excitement, the graduating class then proceeded to light the toro loco and frolic in the sparks. My gringo friends and I were unsure what to do with ourselves but we were the only ones who seemed very concerned. Attending community events like this one has been my best strategy in getting accustomed to the culture and enjoying myself.
On Monday and Wednesday after training, I had the opportunity to volunteer at the community library with some other trainees. The director of the library is an amazing woman who invites local children, many of whom have alcoholic or drug addicted parents, to spend time after school socializing, doing homework, and just relaxing. Her goal is to take their minds off of their difficult circumstances for a few hours and hopefully build some self-esteem. The children range in age from 6-16 and were incredibly excited to see us. This week our activities included lots of introduction games but my favorite activity was drawing with them. We asked them to draw their favorite thing about Peru and then we drew our favorite things about the United States. From their reactions to the questions, it seemed as if they had never been asked this type of question before. Many of the kids ended up drawing the Andes Mountains ,which, as an environmental education volunteer, was a very satisfying result.
Thursday of this week was a holiday and my host mother's birthday. We had a half-day of training so I returned home to celebrate with my family. We ate a very special, traditional dish called Pachamanca which consists of pork, chicken, multiple kinds of potatoes, and beans all placed in a pit of hot rocks, covered in more hot rocks and leaves, and then buried in dirt to cook under ground for 45 minutes. The result is an incredibly flavorful mix of traditional Peruvian meats and vegetables. During the process of cooking and eating the Pachamanca, I sat around with my family and passed the vaso of cerveza, all around a great way to spend a Thursday afternoon.
On Saturday, after our visit to the Agrarian University I headed into Lima to meet up with my host sister and get my camera fixed. The good news is that it now works but the bad news is that I spent 2 weeks allowance to get it fixed. I just hope that it lasts me my entire time here. Although I am a bit frustrated by having to spend so much, I got to spend an excellent day walking around Lima with someone that lives there and now I will be able to document my adventures.
So far I have spent all of my Sundays with my family going to the market, cooking lunch, and relaxing. This week, I decided to go on a short hike about an hour away from the town I live in with my friend Raija. The plan was to get there early, hike up to the ruins and the waterfall, and get home for lunch. The hike was beautiful. It wound up through an arid hillside along a stream passing by a rather disappointing and fake looking ruin and then ending at a picturesque waterfall. We soaked our feet in the water and chatted for a while and then were about to head out when we met a group of friends who had come in from Lima the night before and set up camp. They invited us to join them for snacks and beer at the base of the waterfall and we couldn’t refuse the offer. After an excellent conversation about what we are doing here and environmental issues in Peru, we thanked them for their hospitality and once again attempted to head down the hill and back to Yanacoto. This time, we were intercepted by a man, his daughter, and his 6 year-old grandson who all spoke English and were familiar with the Peace Corps. We ended up hiking out with them and, as it turns out, they had traveled extensively both within Peru and around the world. They invited us back for lunch at the family compound they are building where we met the rest of the family and hung out for hours. This family had such an interesting background completely distinct from what we have seen thus far. The matriarch of the family had even spent time at Middlebury and in Raija's home state of Indiana. They were equally interested in us and we even managed to teach them to make their own compost!
Overall, my day spent chatting with Peruvians that we met on the hiking trail is one of my favorites so far. The hospitality and approachability these people demonstrated gave me a much needed confidence boost in my ability to strike up conversations with strangers in Spanish and develop friendships and confianza (Spanish word meaning trust, the key to the Peace Corps community integration strategy. I hope to have many more experiences like this and I'm sure I will because the Peruvian people are so gracious and approachable.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Time is Starting to Move Quickly
Perhaps the most exciting thing that happened this week was when the US ambassador to Peru visited our center for lunch and a question and answer session. He requested to meet us because he believes strongly in the Peace Corps as a tool for sustainable development. People asked about all different aspects of his life including his background, his opinion on the challenges we will face as volunteers, and those faced by the Peruvian people. I came away motivated to work in international development in some capacity after I finish here in Peru.
Today we went to the Universidad Agraria for the second in a 6 part workshop. We learned how to build miniature greenhouses which I look forward to doing when I get to my site. From now on our training will be comprised of more hands on, technical training rather than the theoretical and background classes that we have focused on so far. I can't wait for this because I love to be out working with my hands!
Tonight, all the local neighborhoods are hosting parties to celebrate a saint's day. I can't wait to participate in my community! My host family was telling me that last year all the gringos danced really funny. I'm sure my group will uphold this stereotype of Americans considering that none of us have even half the rhythm of the people here who grow up dancing. I have been attending dance classes once a week after school but it hasn't really made any difference. I'm hoping to be at least competent in one or two of the popular dances before I leave here.