The Circus Comes to Town

Before starting this blog I want to give the disclaimer that some things are represented a little negatively (namely the crazy circus that has been set up behind my house for a few weeks now) however, I am still enjoying my time in Peru and I love the town I live in, Pacora Lambayeque. I am in the process of getting used to being back in Peru and it has been surprisingly difficult to reacclimatize to my life here after only a week at home. I think that this trip served to juxtapose what my life would be in the U.S. with the life that I live now. The contrast is more extreme than I realized when the U.S. was a distant memory that I had let go of over a year ago. My last blog discussed the shock I felt at going home at phenomena such as Costco and varied food but the reverse has been true upon my return to Peru. When I went to the States I realized that I had forgotten about sharp knives, plumbing that can handle toilet paper, dishwashers, and not living in a fishbowl. In many ways it was refreshing to have the ease of life that these things bring but it was also a bit uncomfortable to feel so spoiled. Overall, my trip home to the U.S. made me contemplate what my life would be like if I hadn't joined the Peace Corps, but I am glad to be back so that I can have a successful and productive second year. I just need a few days to get used to the small things that I had pretty much forgotten about.

I recognize that much suffering occurs in the United States but it is not part of my daily life so I can go about my living without spending much energy worrying about it. Unfortunately, where I live in Peru there is no ignoring the machismo and other ugly realities that impact my experience. The circus that had set up behind my house while I was gone has served as a harsh reminder of the suffering that I come into contact with in Peru. It is a common theme in literature and movies that outsiders bring in trouble and turmoil. Two examples of this are the portrayal of gypsies in movies and books and the circus in the book Water for Elephants. The circus consists of a giant tent, a caged lion, a few caged goats, and a few trailer houses where the owners live. Since they come to collect water from the spigot at my house I have gotten a first hand view of the turmoil that wracks the circus and has begun to emerge as a negative influence on the town. There is adultery, domestic violence, neglected children running around my yard, and neglected animals. Every time I go outside I can hear the lioness crying from her tiny cage presumably asking to be fed. The harsh realities of life in a developing country are represented at an extreme level by this traveling show where perhaps the most entertainment has come from the gossip that the people behind the clown makeup have generated. The circus is finally packing up to leave taking with them two community members, a young girl running off with a clown and a boy who was unable to find work here in Pacora. The police and the mother got involved this morning trying to prevent the teenage girl from running off but to no avail. My dislike of clowns used to be based on their annoying humor and creepy makeup but now I associate them with wife-beating and running away with underage girls so my dislike has become a bit stronger.


Summer vacation in Pacora means trees drooping under the weight of mangoes and avocadoes everywhere you look, unlimited time spent playing in irrigation canals, and lots of visitors. Much of my host mom's family has come to town and one in particular has been very interesting to talk to. He lives in the principality of Lichtenstein and practices shamanism. He has told me the entire history of the ghost that lives in my house because he was buried where the house now stands in the 1800s. He and various other family members claim to have seen and even interacted with this ghost and his ghost friends on occasion. I find all of this very fascinating even though I do not really ascribe to this form of spirituality. After taking me on a tour of the spots in the house that the ghost likes to hang out, I requested that he read my aura, which is a trade he has been studying in Lichtenstein. He didn't give me that much information but he did ask me if I have come into contact with twins recently and suggested that some twins might visit me. I have no idea how to process or analyze this prediction but we will see what happens. My host mom's reading was much more informative most likely because he knows her and could make predictions pertaining to specific members of her family. The fact that he had to know so much in advance leaves me with doubt about his ability to predict but at the very least this served as a bonding experience for Mariela and myself. One of my favorite things about living in Peru is the license and opportunity it gives me to try things that I never thought I would from eating animal organs to spiritual readings.

Aside from the traveling band of crazies that set up camp in my backyard, life at my house has been excellent. My host mom (who is actually more of a friend who just happens to be in a more maternal life stage than myself) will be turning 34 next week only 5 days after I turn 24. We are going to throw a party where I will buy the goat, which I will then have the neighbor slaughter. We will prepare it with loche (a squash typical of Northern Peru), vinegar, vegetables, beans, rice, and plenty of MSG, salt, and garlic. We are going to invite some friends and dance the night away to celebrate another year. I'm sure this event will generate some stories so I will definitely fill you in in my next entry. My life tends to generate interesting anecdotes and I foresee my 24th birthday party generating a couple although hopefully they do not involve anyone running off with the circus.